The Craft of Exception
The division of Chanel Paraffection
Since 1997, Chanel has bought and merged into a cluster called “PARAFFECTION” seven Parisian workshops of crafts, which perpetuate an ancestral know-how and rare. This is the embroiderer Lesage, the shoemaker Massaro, of the goldsmith Goossens, the feather Lemarie, the hatter Michel, the floral Paruriers Guillet and Paruriers Desrues.
Chanel dump these houses administrative tasks and allows them to focus on their art. Workshop work both for Chanel but are also suppliers of other big names and clients individuals. The Board of Paraffection reached 40 million euros in 2007.
In tribute to the expertise of these exceptional artisans, Chanel has been organizing since 2002, each year, under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld, a fashion show crafts. The House gave, December 3, 2008, in Paris, “a lavish parade Paris-Moscow, Karl Lagerfeld’s tribute to the Slavic soul and the powerful bonds that Coco had with Russia. Russia was quick fascinated Gabrielle Chanel, who from 1920 and its connection with the Grand Duke Dimitri Pavlovich, discovers the splendor of the czars. Therefore, the opulence of embroidery accents Byzantine jewelry of the Russian Empire or constructivism nourish his inspiration, especially as Coco will bind to the likes of Stravinsky, Diaghilev and Lifar. The sound of the balalaika, the Paris-Moscow 2008 parade was an opportunity to highlight the exceptional know-how perpetuated in the Parisian art workshops, a heritage day on which the House of Chanel. “
Chanel bought in 2002 the Paris workshop of François Lesage, the embroiderer of international renown.
The workshop dates back to 1858. “Here, more than sixty tons of embroidery materials are stored, including the largest collection in the way of jet beads. Another nugget, the workshop has the largest collection of embroidery, or 30 000 samples listed since 1858. “
François Lesage has drawn thousands of different embroidery and continues to create one hundred new each year.
François Lesage
– Founder of an embroidery workshop for film studios in Hollywood (United States)
– CEO of the Society of Manufacturing Embroidery haute couture in 1986 became Lesage SA
– Founder of the School of Art Embroidery Lesage (1992)
– Works and works: collections for Givenchy, Dior, Scherrer, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Chanel, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent, create embroideries of the chasuble and miter of Pope John Paul II.
Among the awards: Grand Prize and crafts, great price for the creation of the City of Paris, Freeman of the City of Houston, Fashion Award, awarded by the New York Fashion Group
Raymond Massaro, shoemaker Master of Art, makes models of shoes Chanel Haute Couture fashion shows, while working for other big names like Christian Lacroix, John Galliano, Gianfranco Ferré, Olivier Lapidus, Thierry Mugler, Azzedine Alaia … and providing many custom orders.
He remembers the car controls to the Countess Bismarck … the moccasin canvas panama to Hassan II, the papal mule (John Paul II shoe size 47), high heels scene with Marlene Dietrich in their heels brilliants.
Karl Lagerfeld, loyal customer of the Massaro House
House Goossens, the art of jewelry in all its forms, was created in 1950 by Robert Goossens. It is run today by his son, Patrick.
“Gabrielle Chanel was one of its preferred suppliers, seduced by his ability to reinterpret the jewelry inspired by antiquity, Byzantium and Egypt … Goossens’s reputation is spreading … Balenciaga, Gres, Rochas, Yves Saint Laurent, Guerlain, Marc Bohan for Dior, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Sonia Rykiel him spend
orders “.
Goossens married metals, precious stones, pearls and precious wood, silver and vermeil etc.. Goossens is the signature of rock crystal.
In 1900, Paris had over 300 feather-workers. In 1960, there were only 50.
Today, Lemarie remains practically the only feather in France.
The House was founded in 1880. It is placed first in the world in its field and works for the biggest names in fashion. “Since the retirement of Andre Lemarie, Eric Charles Donatien, the artistic director … hot pushes the concept of the feather-fur, in harmony with the creators
the most extravagant: John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, Hanae Mori, Vera Wang. His technical prowess? The dress-marine birds of Jean-Paul Gaultier, led by Caroline of Monaco.
Marcelle Guillet, Paruriers floral, manufacturer of artificial flowers, feathers and flowers, textiles and son.
Master of Arts is working with the most prestigious designers of haute couture designers and theater and cinema, and its expertise is recognized worldwide.
“Marcelle remembers flourished the windows of Galeries Lafayette, the front steps to the Opera and the French Comedy, receptions of Prince Karim Aga Khan in the colors of his stable of race horses, red and green.
Even Japan, where art reigns supreme bouquet, flowers passed out of fashion, for already 17 years, 20% of its turnover is achieved in this country. “
Since 1936, the Maison Michel Paris is known for creating luxury hats ultra – sophisticated of all shapes and materials for the haute couture and ready-to-wear.
“Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Yohji Yamamoto, Christian Lacroix, Kenzo, and many others will find who to ask sometimes impossible, a rare straw, wrapped a diabolical mastery of satin, velvet, felt or leather. Chez Michel, all the tricks of the trade are concentrated in the hands of a small group of craftsmen and complementary: the hat is the one who puts the hat-shaped, while the dressmaker who sews is the garnish, the ends. . It is therefore a unique expertise that Chanel has preserved taking up the Maison Michel in 1996. “
Source: www.patrimoine-vivant.com
Georges Desrues, Paruriers Haute Couture and Design.
The House was founded in 1929. Since that time, she works with the most prestigious designers: Jeanne Lanvin, Christian Dior, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.Très quickly becomes Georges Desrues the preferred supplier of Mademoiselle Chanel. In 1984 he cedes control of his house Chanel. Today Desrues Plailly is located in the Oise, where the House employs 200 highly skilled people who produce buttons and jewelry prestigious and valuable Chanel, her first client, but also for Louis Vuitton and so on.
Eight times a year, a collection of 100 models was created, combining the resources of high technology and craftsmanship.
In 2007, the company achieved a turnover of almost 29 million.
